Smara: The Holy City of Ma al-Aynayn
A Holy City in the Sahara
Unlike most Saharan settlements that grew from oases or ports, Smara was conceived as a religious capital. The site in the Saguia el-Hamra had long served travellers, but it gained its identity when Sheikh Ma al-Aynayn chose it as a centre of faith and learning.
Around the turn of the twentieth century the sheikh began building a ribat here, and in 1902 he declared Smara his holy capital. The town became a hub of Islamic scholarship, with mosques, a religious school and an important library.
Sheikh Ma al-Aynayn
Ma al-Aynayn was an influential religious and political figure who united Saharan tribes and resisted European colonial encroachment. From Smara he organised both spiritual teaching and armed resistance against advancing colonial forces.
His legacy endures across the southern provinces and Mauritania, where his descendants and disciples spread his teachings. The zawiya he founded gave Smara a prestige unmatched by any other interior town in the region.
The Fortress and the Ruins
At the centre of modern Smara stand the remains of Ma al-Aynayn's stone fortress, which once enclosed a mosque, a striking sight in a landscape otherwise built of mud and concrete. The complex was heavily damaged during colonial campaigns in the early twentieth century, and its famous library was lost.
Today the ruined zawiya is the town's chief monument and a place of pilgrimage and reflection. Restoration and heritage efforts have sought to preserve what remains of this rare stone-built Saharan religious centre.
Visiting Smara Today
Smara is an inland town in Morocco's southern provinces, reached by road from Laayoune across open desert. It is quieter and more traditional than the coastal cities, offering an authentic glimpse of Hassani Saharan life.
Visitors come mainly for the historic zawiya, the markets and the strong sense of religious heritage. As an interior desert town, it is hot and dry, best visited in the cooler months and with a vehicle for the open roads.
Frequently asked
Why is Smara called a holy city?
Smara was founded as a religious capital by Sheikh Ma al-Aynayn around 1902, centred on his zawiya, mosque and Islamic library, making it a major centre of faith and learning in the Sahara.
What can you see in Smara today?
The main sight is the ruined stone fortress and zawiya of Ma al-Aynayn at the town centre, along with local markets and the everyday Hassani culture of the southern provinces.
How do you get to Smara?
Smara is reached by road from Laayoune across open desert. It is an inland town, so travellers usually drive or take regional transport rather than fly.