Msemen (also called rghaif) is prized for its many thin, buttery layers, achieved by stretching the dough until it is almost transparent then folding it. The contrast of crisp edges and tender, flaky interior is what makes it irresistible.
It is a staple of the Moroccan breakfast (ftour) and afternoon tea, sold by street vendors and made at home for weekends and Ramadan. The same dough can be shaped into round meloui (coiled) or stuffed with onions and spices for a savory version.
The dough combines all-purpose flour and fine semolina (smida), with salt, a little sugar, and enough warm water to make a soft, slightly sticky dough. Some recipes add a touch of yeast for lightness, but classic msemen needs none.
Knead the dough well for about 10 minutes until smooth and elastic; this develops the gluten so the dough can be stretched thin without tearing. Divide it into smooth balls, coat them lightly in oil, and let them rest covered for 15 to 20 minutes so they relax.
Oil your work surface generously. Take a rested ball and press and stretch it outward with oiled hands until it is a large, thin, almost see-through circle. Brush the surface with a mix of oil and softened butter, and sprinkle a little semolina for extra flakiness.
Fold the left and right sides into the center, then the top and bottom, to form a square packet of layers. The semolina between the folds keeps the layers distinct so they separate when cooked. Let the squares rest a few minutes before frying.
Heat a flat, heavy skillet or griddle over medium heat with a little oil. Press each square gently to flatten slightly, then cook, flipping several times, until both sides are golden brown and crisp with cooked, flaky layers inside.
Brush with a little more butter as it cooks for richness. The msemen should puff slightly and reveal its layers. Do not cook on too high a heat or the outside burns before the inside is done.
1) Mix and knead the dough until smooth. 2) Divide into oiled balls and rest. 3) Stretch each ball thin on an oiled surface. 4) Brush with oil-butter and sprinkle semolina. 5) Fold into squares. 6) Rest, then pan-fry until golden on both sides.
Work with oiled hands throughout to prevent sticking and tearing. Practice improves the stretch; even slightly imperfect msemen tastes wonderful. Make a big batch since they disappear quickly.
Serve msemen warm, drizzled with honey and butter, or with amlou (almond-argan spread), jam, or soft cheese. It is the classic partner to a glass of sweet mint tea or coffee at breakfast.
Msemen can be made ahead and reheated in a dry skillet to crisp it again. To freeze, layer cooked or raw folded squares between parchment paper. Reheat raw ones straight from frozen in the pan over medium heat.
| Ingredient | Amount |
|---|---|
| All-purpose flour | 3 cups |
| Fine semolina (smida) | 1 cup |
| Salt | 1 tsp |
| Sugar | 1 tsp |
| Warm water | approx. 1.5 cups |
| Vegetable oil (for stretching) | 1/2 cup |
| Softened butter | 1/4 cup |
| Extra semolina (for sprinkling) | 1/4 cup |
Ingredients
Tough msemen usually means the dough was under-rested or under-stretched, or it was cooked on heat that was too high. Rest the dough so the gluten relaxes, stretch it as thin as possible, and cook on medium heat.
Yes, you can use all flour, but the semolina adds the characteristic flakiness and slight crunch between the layers. If you skip it, sprinkle a little flour between folds instead.
They use the same dough but are shaped differently. Msemen is folded into squares, while meloui is rolled into a long rope and coiled into a spiral round. Meloui tends to be a bit softer and more bread-like.
Loved this? Useful? React below โ your feedback helps other readers.