Moroccan Leather Goods & Babouches
A Centuries-Old Craft
Morocco has been renowned for leather for over a thousand years, and the word 'morocco' itself once described a fine goatskin leather in English. The historic tanneries of Fez, especially the famous Chouara tannery, still use stone vats and natural processes that look almost unchanged for centuries.
Leatherwork (jild) supports a large network of tanners, dyers and craftsmen who turn raw hides into slippers, bags, poufs and clothing. Buying these goods connects you to a living tradition rather than a factory product.
How the Leather Is Made
At the Fez tanneries, hides from cows, goats, sheep and sometimes camels are soaked in vats of lime and natural agents to remove hair and soften them, then transferred to colourful dye pits. Visitors are usually handed a sprig of mint to hold against the strong smell, which comes from the traditional tanning process.
After dyeing, the leather is dried on rooftops and hillsides in the sun before being cut and sewn by artisans nearby. The natural tanning gives the leather its characteristic smell and rich colour, and explains why each piece varies slightly.
Babouches and Other Popular Goods
Babouches are the iconic soft pointed-toe slippers, sold in every colour; men's are often plain yellow or white, while women's come embroidered and decorated. They are flat, foldable and a classic souvenir, though sizing can be approximate, so try them on.
Other staples include the leather pouf (a round footstool you stuff at home), handbags and satchels, belts, wallets, poufs, and jackets. Marrakech and Fez are the main shopping hubs, with whole sections of the souk dedicated to leather (the kissaria).
How to Judge and Buy Quality
Real leather smells of leather, feels supple and warm, and shows natural grain and small imperfections, while plastic imitations smell chemical and feel cold and uniform. Check the stitching: tight, even seams and reinforced edges signal better workmanship, and pull gently on straps and soles to test how well they are attached.
For babouches, look at how the sole is joined to the upper, since cheap glued soles can separate quickly. As always, haggling is expected; inspect the goods, agree a fair price, and for poufs remember you usually buy them unstuffed (flat) to save space when travelling.
Caring for Leather Goods
Keep leather away from prolonged direct sun and damp, both of which can dry it out or cause mould. Wipe with a soft dry cloth, and occasionally treat bags and shoes with a suitable leather conditioner to keep them supple, testing on a hidden spot first.
Newly bought items may have a strong natural smell that fades with airing over a few weeks. For poufs, stuff them firmly with old clothes, fabric scraps or a beanbag insert, and avoid overstuffing, which strains the seams.
| Item | Local note | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Babouches | Pointed slippers | Sole attachment, fit |
| Pouf | Sold flat/unstuffed | Seam strength, zip |
| Handbag | Goat or cowhide | Stitching, lining, straps |
| Belt | Hand-tooled options | Even holes, buckle |
| Jacket | Lambskin common | Suppleness, seams |
Common Moroccan leather goods
FAQ
What are babouches?
Babouches are traditional Moroccan leather slippers with a flat sole and pointed toe. Men's are often plain, while women's versions are frequently embroidered or beaded, and they come in many colours.
Why do they give you mint at the Fez tanneries?
The traditional tanning and dyeing process produces a strong smell, so visitors are handed a sprig of mint to hold near their nose. It is a normal part of the tannery visit.
How do I know if Moroccan leather is real?
Genuine leather smells of leather, feels supple and warm, and shows natural grain and minor imperfections. Plastic imitations feel cold, perfectly uniform, and smell chemical.
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